Monday, February 18, 2008

February 28, 2008 by kris2008

Since I go to bed so early here, I rise early also. Of course, this is no news to farmers, but it is definitely news to those who know me well enough to know that I almost always watch the Daily Show with Jon Stewart, and then sometimes the Colbert Report. I am not quite going through withdrawals, but the Ecuadorian TV is just not the same. Especially if you consider the TV in the Lounge gets, maybe, 4 channels.

I am a little panicked about March Madness though. Maybe I will fill out my brackets and email them to George, and he to me. I will be hitting the ESPN.com website as much as possible, reviewing Bracketology, some video replays, etc. Okay. That is still a month away.

Monday morning is the best because the cafeteria is open again, and I am served breakfast. Today, I have my one boiled egg, watermelon juice, fruit salad (pineapples with grapes) with the sprinkle of granola, splash of yogurt, a cup of hot milk and an empanada. Yum!

Today the Library was very busy. Okay, that means that six people came in throughout the day, plus I got an email request for journal articles. I am please to say that the Smith Library gateway has helped me at least be knowledgeable about periodicals. The journal locator is definitely worth its price.

Dennis (volcanologist) brought me his pared down ‘Galapagos’ citations from his CV and told me that if the library didn’t own them already, he had the PDFs. This is how it is supposed to work. You do research at the Station, the library gets a copy of your output for its archives. Then he stuck around to browse a particular thesis. The library has many researchers in all disciplines and any theses that are Galapagos related are expected to be donated to the Library for posterity, too.

Mandy Gardener, the wife of the Head of Botanica, was in the Library looking for aerial maps. There is a big map case, but none of the maps are cataloged, I think. She spent some hours opening drawers and pulling out maps. I found some CD-Roms with aerial photos, and we found another program that might help her. She is here with her husband and daughter. She asked if there were any children’s books in the library and, Yes, there are some; maybe 8 or 9 that this library owns. She says that she is interested in writing a children’s book about the Galapagos, and I say that I am too. She asks me if I can draw, and I say no, but my husband can(!) And that pretty much ended that. I guess that it is something to think about.

My favorite library user today was some poor graduate student wanting to use a PC in the Library to continue to write her thesis. The Head of Volunteers, Luis Molina, sent her to the Library to work. She has her data on a flash drive. The only other PC in the library (that’s not the Librarian’s) doesn’t have a place to put a flash drive. It’s just some old CPU that supports the OPAC, not a newer generation anything. But I saved the day and unpacked my laptop and set her up with it, and she was good to go. She was very happy to have it.

At lunch time, I walk up to the dorms and go into the kitchen and turn the tap to check to see if we have water yet. Nope, nada. Nuts! I think that after lunch and before work again this afternoon, I might just have to go swimming and ‘pretend’ to take a bath. And, that is exactly what I do. This is the beach that I found on my first day here when I had to get lost because Eduardo was moving out of the room. It’s only a few minutes walk. There are marine iguanas on the path, on the beach and digging in the sand. I think of them as ever-present as squirrels, but on valium. They are everywhere, and as I walk by them, I still can’t believe that they aren’t going to run up to me and bite me. It is a very odd sensation.

Even in the afternoon, the Library is busy! Quite the day. Paola, the botanist who worked in the library before I came, visited me and worked with me for over an hour and a half. I cataloged three items last week and she and I went over it together. Unfortunately, it is true that they have an OPAC that you can enter data directly into (with a template) *and* they maintain an MS Excel spreadsheet as a backup. This double entry really sucks. It definitely slows me down.

I have used Worldcat and Library of Congress catalogs for some Dewey numbers and Subject Headings. I must say that I wish I had more biological Spanish terms in my repertoire. They use both English and Spanish subject headings, and of course, there is no thesaurus per se. They use the index in the back of the Bibliografia de la Galapagos instead, so they aren’t reinventing any new schema.

The Polish woman who is writing her articles/book came in again today. She is looking for statistics on the animals here. She wants current information, but there really isn’t any big overarching statistical data that I can find. What I would call “The Count” all truly depends on the location (which Island) and the weather. If El Nino is bad, and populations die back, then the stats are down. If the weather is ideal, then the population flourishes. I’m not sure that anyone could grasp the whole picture annually. Most of the data is very specific to place and time, not generalized, as she is looking for.

A dorm mate came into the library looking for a citation at 5 PM, her first time in the Library. I say, This is where I work every day. Welcome. The citation was for her boss/researcher, and the PDF was right there on the web (Thanks Google). I ask her if she knows if we have water back at the dorms yet. Yes, we do. Alleluia! Then I ask her if she wanted me to print this PDF at 15 cents a page. She leaves to check with her boss. Then her boss comes into the Library, while I am downloading the file. I ask her if I should print it out for her and she says, No email it to me. She stands over me so I get the right “To:” in the email address, and I attach it, and send it on. It is no problema for me if she wants to print it, read it, or save it. (I am ecstatic we have water!)

Dinner was cereal, etc. then on to blogging this entry. It is 9:30 PM and time for a last minute walk to the bathroom, and then on to bed.

Sunday, February 17, 2008

February 28, 2008 by kris2008

A lazy day. I wake up and read Hillerman. I am hungry and go to the Kitchen/Lounge for, Yep, you guessed it! Cereal with raisins and milk and a glass of water. None of the others are awake in the compound. Mari has had to work both yesterday and today, and tomorrow starts her week of work again. Poor kid! So I have our room to myself. I play my Rise of Atlantis computer game; starting with 5 lives and giving up when I have only one life left. I better be more clever for this level, or lose all of the territory that I gained; back to some other ancient city to start over again.

At 8 AM, I can hear the touristas over at the tortugas; a loud bunch. I’m sure that they don’t even think that we are living over here; maybe they think our bldg is the iguana hatching station, or some other wild biological experiment. Ah which, when you come right down to it, it is.

I read and write some blog entries. I try desperately to understand Picasa by Google, my photo software program. I can load the pix fine, but finding them again is quite another thing! I download the pix that I took yesterday at Las Grietas.

The weather is warm and breezy, but also drizzly. I have no energy (remember that I am totally solar-powered), and my amount of activity and enthusiasm is diminished.

At 1 PM, Mari comes back from work (starting at 5 AM, she shouldn’t have to work ‘til late). I tell her that I was just thinking about going to town for lunch and she wants to go too. Yea, someone to walk, talk, and eat with. She is soaked and wants to shower. Go ahead, I’m in no hurry.

There is little coolness to the air, and I debate a long-sleeved shirt. Who the heck am I kidding? It’s not like it’s 65 degrees. It might be 72 or so. I’m good in a Tee-shirt, for heaven’s sake. I take my umbrella (thank goodness for the $5 special at Ocean State Job Lot) and money and leave the backpack behind.

Mari is very tired, but she is a trooper. We walk in the rain to the street of the kioskos, and we sit and eat where I ate yesterday with Frida. Hot lentil soup, blackberry juice, pollo (chicken) in a mushroom sauce, [the ever present] arroz (rice), and coleslaw(!) for a salad. Muy bien! All this for $2.50 (and you don’t have to leave a tip!).

We go to the ice cream shop for dessert. I pass. Mari needs to buy bread to make sandwiches because she is out in the field every day for lunch. The mercados (markets) are very much cerrado (closed); the bakery is closed. It is a like someone literally rolled up the sidewalks. We walk home. She exhausted, me just glad to have had the company.

We part at the room. I want to go the Library (read: Internet access), and she wants to nap. Perfecto! I will be back just before dark, for cereal (again) for dinner.

I tried on Friday to upload a video that I took from my webcam in the library onto YouTube. No luck. I tried again but a javascript error on IE occurs and stops the upload. Darn! For all of my media, I sure am helpless behind the Station’s intranet.

I read and write emails to George and my friend Judy, regarding my Mom’s health and progress from her surgery. She is still in a convalescent hospital, and it is still very slow going for her. I pray for her every chance I get. Lord, let her get her strength back. Amen.

I googled ESPN on Saturday and found out the Huskies won their 20th game (on the road and by the last basket). Woo hoo! Now I sign up for ESPN.com, and have a look at the video that shows (maybe) 2 minutes of the game, and the ever-present talking (sports) heads, but the Huskies win!! Unbelievably, 20 wins and 5 losses, #17 in the country, Third in the Big East. You gotta love it!

Between my laptop and the Librarian’s PC, I upload my blog entry for my first day here. Wish that I could upload pix too. But, I am stuck with the written word only. I’m done for the night and head back to the dorm.

I take plastic glass, spoon and food to the kitchen only to find out we don’t have water. None, zero, anywhere on the Station. This is the second time this has happened. So much for a shower, or anything coming close to feeling clean. Luckily, I have my new gallon of water from yesterday. I eat but leave my dirty bowl in the sink, I take my spoon with me and head out.

I plug the bathroom sink with the stopper and pour in some water. I was my hands and face, I brush my teeth. This is as good as it is going to get. Yuck. I go back to the room and read. Then off to sleep…

Saturday, February 16, 2008: Las Grietas

February 28, 2008 by kris2008

I start my adventure today with a gorgeous, sunny, bright cloudless sky. Ambient temp has to be at least 80 degrees. Today is not a day for work, but play.

Yesterday at lunch, the information that the cafeteria was open on Saturdays was reconfirmed. Sweet! I take a shower, get dressed and head to the cafeteria. It is 7:45 AM, and the door is closed. I know that they just adjusted breakfast to start at 7:30 AM on the weekdays (instead of 7 AM), and yesterday they said that they’d open on Saturday a little later than during the week. Well their idea of a little later and my idea of a little later are rather different.

While I was walking back up the path, their truck was driving down it, so breakfast will be starting soon, 8 AM I guess. I go back to my room, fire up my computador, and re-read my Monday, February 4th entry in preparation to post it on my blog either today or tomorrow.

Some of the folks from the dorm are grouping outside and they are headed to breakfast. I follow in a few minutes. In the cafeteria, there is a big TV set. During the weekdays it is turned to the news. For the weekend, there are Warner Bros. cartoons on from the 1950s and 60s translated into Spanish. Porky Pig & Daffy Duck in Spanish. Unbelievable!

I order my new regular breakfast, uno huevo duro, one hard-boiled egg which is already out of its shell(!). Of course that comes with a cup of hot milk (in which I am now putting Nescafe instant coffee), fresh juice, mixed fruit salad with a splash of yogurt and sprinkle of granola, and some bread thing; a roll, empanada, or tostada. Today we had something completely different as “bread,” some rolled up ball of meal, I think. It was difficult to decide whether I liked it or not. And because the cafeteria has several resident birds that fly about (in and out of the windows), this morning I tossed more than usual to the Yellow Warbler, named Maria, who has the most beautiful song.

After eating, I hit the Library to empty the dehumidifier. I feel guilty not doing it, so I do. And, while I’m there, I might as well long on and read my gmail. I don’t stay very long because a British woman, Frida, who has lived here for 3 years now and works for the Station, invited me to spend part of the day with her scrambling around on some volcanic rocks somewhere.

She and I will meet for 12:30 PM and do lunch on the street where all of the restaurants are. My roommate, Mari, has been telling me about this street for days now, and finally, I will get to see it, know where it is, and even eat there.

I take one more bathroom break before I head to town. And I discover quite the scene of domesticity: Dario and another woman doing their laundry by hand at the laundry basins/sink. She says that she doesn’t like the way her laundry feels afterward if she uses the washing machine. Me? I don’t know the difference. I’ll take the machine every time.

Dario and Roberto are outside my room. Dario has found a teeny gecko, and he wants a picture taken. Roberto goes and gets a camera. I get mine. I take a pic of Roberto taking a close-up pic of Dario’s arm where the gecko is pretty much happily sitting. Then I take a picture of the gecko on Dario’s arm. Both are keeper pix, I think.

At 11:15 AM, I am ready to go. I have my 4 postcards to mail if the Post Office is open. I have my baseball cap, sunscreen, bug repellant, camera, umbrella, money, wallet, water bottle, small roll of toilet paper (Hey! You never know), a mini-map of the island, and extra batteries. I feel like I am carrying everything but the kitchen sink in my backpack. I have on socks and sneakers for the first time since I arrived. They feel good to wear, but it’s almost too hot to have them on. I walk to town.

By 3 minutes of 12, I arrive at the P.O. and it is open. Yippee! Postage on one postcard is 50 cents. I bought and wrote these cards on my second day here (so much for mailing them in a timely fashion). I sit in a shaded plaza to cool off a little. That onshore breeze is the best.

The Post Office, supermarket, and the Dock are all here. I see boats and more boats. I get up and cross the street to get a better look. They number of boats in this bay is incredible. The big boats can’t come in close so they have these little boats called pangas. Pangas sit maybe 6-8 people and they ferry touristas from the big boats to the dock to disembark and see the town and the National Park and the Research Station.  I take some pictures of the cliffs opposite, and the boats coming and going.

At 12:30, I meet Frida. She looks like she is going on a big hike; bush hat, hiking boots, backpack with 2 bottles of water, and a telescoping walking stick. Yikes! I look like I’m going for a walk in the park in comparison. She says Shall we eat? And I say Yes, lead on. We turn off of Darwin Ave. onto Baltra. 2 blocks up, we turn to the left and lo and behold! The street with all the restaurants on it! We walk the street looking at the menus posted. I see the Polish woman who has been working in the Library doing research for her book. We say hello and she is gone. How about that? I am recognizing people on the streets of Puerto Ayora! Just like a native, huh?

Frida eats occasionally at the one kiosko we choose, so I feel good about eating there. It is a fixed meal with a fixed price: $2.50. You can choose between chicken or pork. I get the chicken, she the pork. Every meal starts with soup. This one is hot, exactly the way I like soup! Our conversation ranges all over the place and we eat and talk. She gives me the lowdown on why it is important to arrive at a restaurant early (rather than late) for lunch. All of the plates are already made up and the earlier you get there, ah, the fresher the dish. Great advice!

My stomach starts to feel a little queasy; all of the hot food hit it all at once, I think. I tell her that I’m not so good, so we sit a few more minutes. I feel better, but just in case, I will use the bathroom. It is an unusual room. The door is on the level of the rest of the restaurant, and it sweeps just semicircular to open and close. As soon as you open the door, you step up to the toilet, sink and tub floor. Very strange, but it worked fine.

That done, we head out. She asks me if I like ice cream. Sure enough, I say. She points out two helado shops that are good; but this one is better, she says, because it is more hygienic. Like Whoa! I guess that I will need to be careful eating out.

During lunch she told me that we would be taking a water taxi to get where we are going. It’s called Las Grietas (The Crevices). We get on the water taxi and the only other passenger asks how long we’ve been in the Galapagos (a really good way to start up a conversation around here). Frida says that she has been coming here for the last 15 years but lives here now. She was spending a heck of a lot of money flying back and forth, she says. The guy asks the water taxi driver (should he be called a cabbie?) to drop him off at the blue boat. So this guy has sailed this gorgeous new sailboat from the Caribbean to Galapagos for the owners. Not a shabby gig, I think. The cabbie drops him at the back of the boat. I am very impressed at how the cabbies can control their boats; ease in and use reverse to just get close enough to kiss the landing. Must be their years of experience. We see a Blue-footed Booby dive into the water. My first sighting! Woohoo! When he comes up, he swoops over the boat empty-beaked. His face is very distinguishable, but did I see the blue feet? I’m not sure. They nest on the cliffs that I photographed from the dock earlier. Cool.

The boat ride costs 50 cents each and Frida pays. She says she is the one with a salary here. Fine, I let it pass. We start to walk down a pathway toward a beach, a hotel called Finch Bay, and the trail to Las Greitas. The hotel looks very, very nice. I think I will have to find out their room rates for when George arrives. Frida says maybe we would stop in for a drink on the walk back. Great idea.

 We find the trail. It is very well marked and incredibly volcanic. I told her I had sneakers, and she said that hiking boots would be better, oh well. Mostly, hiking boots would be good support for your ankles, just in case you missed your footing and t-w-i-s-t. It very sunny and I have to stop and put more sunscreen on my arms.

I explain to her that my flush face may look like I am about to have a coronary, but that is how my body works. I get red-faced, but still have the endurance to go on. Frida still insists upon a sit-down break when we find some shade to sit under. As we sit, we can hear the men & boys jumping off the high ledge of the crevice into the water below. We are close.

We head on and we arrive. There are two sets of steep stairs to climb down, then scramble over some very big volcanic rocks and there is one little place to enter the water without jumping. Frida, who knew what we were going to do, has on a swimsuit. I, on the other hand, completely clueless, find a shady spot to sit and watch. The water is cold, I can tell because everyone hesitates and says Frio! Some people have brought their snorkels, a family is here with the Mom sitting and watching as her husband and two kids swim, most of the men/boys jump from various heights.

Frida is out of the water, air drying. We watch the jumpers. I snap picture after picture of the jumpers, then put my camera away. Then Frida says These two guys are going to jump at the same time! Indicating to me to get my camera out, but fast! I do, but it is too late. Drats! Even though I take lots of photos, intend to keep only one or two of the best ones. A double jump probably would have been a keeper, though.

The longer we stay the more people come. There are 25 persons here now, and Frida asks if I am ready to go. You bet! I am all sweaty (yes, Karen, sweaty) and ready to return to a refreshing drink. We head up and out. On the way back, I snap a pic of Frida as she turns and stands. I can’t wait to send it to her as an email attachment. The trail isn’t very long on the way back. You know how that is, it takes forever to get to a place that you’ve never been, and the return trip always seems shorter.

There is a new building that we passed on the way in that Frida had never seen before. It is a bar, and we decide to sit and have a drink here. We sit at it for maybe 10 minutes and no one comes to serve us. Actually, no one was in sight anywhere(!) It was a good break, and we head back toward the water taxi station. When we get to the beach, I walk near the shore rather than the boardwalk. I say to Frida Are these Darwin Seagulls, because everything is named Darwin this, Darwin that? She says that they are Lava Gulls. I hear their cry. It is like Bru-ha-ha-ha; a very unusual “song,” I think. I have heard these birds at the Station and wondered who had that mysterious sounding birdcall.

This time I pay for the return trip. Frida has invited me to her apartment for tea before I head home, but the skies are looking ominous, it is definitely going to rain. I tell her Thanks, I will go to the supermarket buy some things (a gallon of water and a drink), and try to make it back to the dorms before the sky opens up.

On my way back, I see that there will be a music festival in the plaza tonight. The banner says it starts at 6 PM. When I walked past the plaza this morning, Cerveza vendors were setting up by putting bottles of beer into refrigeration. Now at 4:30 PM, the food vendors are setting up their stands.

I am glad to have had my Tampico (name brand) citrus punch (orange, mandarin and lemon) to fortify me on my return trip. Of course it’s made mostly of sugared water with a citrus flavor, but it hit the spot.

Just as I am at the end of the circle at the Station, it starts to rain. I stop briefly under the Admin bldg porch to get my umbrella out. False alarm. I walk to my room and unload my backpack. Whew!

My roommate is there and asks me what I did all day. I tell her. I have just carried a gallon of water that came out of the store refrigerator through town. I am a little warm from the walk, and it is just too tempting to open the new jug and have a quenching cool drink of water. I do it, and I am refreshed. Ah…

I’m thinking about taking a shower, but there are only a few hours left of daylight, and my only Internet access is you know where. I go to the Library, log-on, read and write emails. When I am in the Library and it rains, I know this because it sounds like a 747 taking off over head. And, that’s the sound I hear. I was right about the rain, just wrong about the timing.

It’s dark and I leave the Library. Time to head into the kitchen for cereal, raisins and milk for dinner. I go to the door and it is closed, lights are off (both inside and out). Hmm. The gang is watching a video (The Pathfinder) on a computer screen. Whoops! Sorry. I turn on the outside light which gives me enough light inside to find a bowl and “make” my dinner. I watch as much of it as I can stand, finish up, and go to take a shower, for the second time today!

I start this blog entry, and read a little. Mari had to work today and she will work again tomorrow. The researcher that she volunteers for lost too many days at the beginning of the week. So they are working all weekend. Poor kid. She gets up at 4:30 AM to be in the field before sunrise. At night, she is pretty exhausted, esp. because the rest of the dorm gang goes to town late for dinner, and then has some other activity planned. She wants to be part of the group, but has this dreadful schedule (you know, for a young person).

As I lay in bed, Dario (next door) has Frank Sinatra singing “New York New York” blaring out and he is singing along with it! I smile to myself, thinking that I take a chartered bus to the Big Apple four times a year from Willimantic, and can take Metro North any other time that I want. Spoiled much? When his music quiets down, through the window I can hear the sound of the music from town over the sound of the crashing waves. I drift off…

I start my adventure today with a gorgeous, sunny, bright cloudless sky. Ambient temp has to be at least 80 degrees. Today is not a day for work, but play.

Yesterday at lunch, the information that the cafeteria was open on Saturdays was reconfirmed. Sweet! I take a shower, get dressed and head to the cafeteria. It is 7:45 AM, and the door is closed. I know that they just adjusted breakfast to start at 7:30 AM on the weekdays (instead of 7 AM), and yesterday they said that they’d open on Saturday a little later than during the week. Well their idea of a little later and my idea of a little later are rather different.

While I was walking back up the path, their truck was driving down it, so breakfast will be starting soon, 8 AM I guess. I go back to my room, fire up my computador, and re-read my Monday, February 4th entry in preparation to post it on my blog either today or tomorrow.

Some of the folks from the dorm are grouping outside and they are headed to breakfast. I follow in a few minutes. In the cafeteria, there is a big TV set. During the weekdays it is turned to the news. For the weekend, there are Warner Bros. cartoons on from the 1950s and 60s translated into Spanish. Porky Pig & Daffy Duck in Spanish. Unbelievable!

I order my new regular breakfast, uno huevo duro, one hard-boiled egg which is already out of its shell(!). Of course that comes with a cup of hot milk (in which I am now putting Nescafe instant coffee), fresh juice, mixed fruit salad with a splash of yogurt and sprinkle of granola, and some bread thing; a roll, empanada, or tostada. Today we had something completely different as “bread,” some rolled up ball of meal, I think. It was difficult to decide whether I liked it or not. And because the cafeteria has several resident birds that fly about (in and out of the windows), this morning I tossed more than usual to the Yellow Warbler, named Maria, who has the most beautiful song.

After eating, I hit the Library to empty the dehumidifier. I feel guilty not doing it, so I do. And, while I’m there, I might as well long on and read my gmail. I don’t stay very long because a British woman, Frida, who has lived here for 3 years now and works for the Station, invited me to spend part of the day with her scrambling around on some volcanic rocks somewhere.

She and I will meet for 12:30 PM and do lunch on the street where all of the restaurants are. My roommate, Mari, has been telling me about this street for days now, and finally, I will get to see it, know where it is, and even eat there.

I take one more bathroom break before I head to town. And I discover quite the scene of domesticity: Dario and another woman doing their laundry by hand at the laundry basins/sink. She says that she doesn’t like the way her laundry feels afterward if she uses the washing machine. Me? I don’t know the difference. I’ll take the machine every time.

Dario and Roberto are outside my room. Dario has found a teeny gecko, and he wants a picture taken. Roberto goes and gets a camera. I get mine. I take a pic of Roberto taking a close-up pic of Dario’s arm where the gecko is pretty much happily sitting. Then I take a picture of the gecko on Dario’s arm. Both are keeper pix, I think.

At 11:15 AM, I am ready to go. I have my 4 postcards to mail if the Post Office is open. I have my baseball cap, sunscreen, bug repellant, camera, umbrella, money, wallet, water bottle, small roll of toilet paper (Hey! You never know), a mini-map of the island, and extra batteries. I feel like I am carrying everything but the kitchen sink in my backpack. I have on socks and sneakers for the first time since I arrived. They feel good to wear, but it’s almost too hot to have them on. I walk to town.

By 3 minutes of 12, I arrive at the P.O. and it is open. Yippee! Postage on one postcard is 50 cents. I bought and wrote these cards on my second day here (so much for mailing them in a timely fashion). I sit in a shaded plaza to cool off a little. That onshore breeze is the best.

The Post Office, supermarket, and the Dock are all here. I see boats and more boats. I get up and cross the street to get a better look. They number of boats in this bay is incredible. The big boats can’t come in close so they have these little boats called pangas. Pangas sit maybe 6-8 people and they ferry touristas from the big boats to the dock to disembark and see the town and the National Park and the Research Station.  I take some pictures of the cliffs opposite, and the boats coming and going.

At 12:30, I meet Frida. She looks like she is going on a big hike; bush hat, hiking boots, backpack with 2 bottles of water, and a telescoping walking stick. Yikes! I look like I’m going for a walk in the park in comparison. She says Shall we eat? And I say Yes, lead on. We turn off of Darwin Ave. onto Baltra. 2 blocks up, we turn to the left and lo and behold! The street with all the restaurants on it! We walk the street looking at the menus posted. I see the Polish woman who has been working in the Library doing research for her book. We say hello and she is gone. How about that? I am recognizing people on the streets of Puerto Ayora! Just like a native, huh?

Frida eats occasionally at the one kiosko we choose, so I feel good about eating there. It is a fixed meal with a fixed price: $2.50. You can choose between chicken or pork. I get the chicken, she the pork. Every meal starts with soup. This one is hot, exactly the way I like soup! Our conversation ranges all over the place and we eat and talk. She gives me the lowdown on why it is important to arrive at a restaurant early (rather than late) for lunch. All of the plates are already made up and the earlier you get there, ah, the fresher the dish. Great advice!

My stomach starts to feel a little queasy; all of the hot food hit it all at once, I think. I tell her that I’m not so good, so we sit a few more minutes. I feel better, but just in case, I will use the bathroom. It is an unusual room. The door is on the level of the rest of the restaurant, and it sweeps just semicircular to open and close. As soon as you open the door, you step up to the toilet, sink and tub floor. Very strange, but it worked fine.

That done, we head out. She asks me if I like ice cream. Sure enough, I say. She points out two helado shops that are good; but this one is better, she says, because it is more hygienic. Like Whoa! I guess that I will need to be careful eating out.

During lunch she told me that we would be taking a water taxi to get where we are going. It’s called Las Grietas (The Crevices). We get on the water taxi and the only other passenger asks how long we’ve been in the Galapagos (a really good way to start up a conversation around here). Frida says that she has been coming here for the last 15 years but lives here now. She was spending a heck of a lot of money flying back and forth, she says. The guy asks the water taxi driver (should he be called a cabbie?) to drop him off at the blue boat. So this guy has sailed this gorgeous new sailboat from the Caribbean to Galapagos for the owners. Not a shabby gig, I think. The cabbie drops him at the back of the boat. I am very impressed at how the cabbies can control their boats; ease in and use reverse to just get close enough to kiss the landing. Must be their years of experience. We see a Blue-footed Booby dive into the water. My first sighting! Woohoo! When he comes up, he swoops over the boat empty-beaked. His face is very distinguishable, but did I see the blue feet? I’m not sure. They nest on the cliffs that I photographed from the dock earlier. Cool.

The boat ride costs 50 cents each and Frida pays. She says she is the one with a salary here. Fine, I let it pass. We start to walk down a pathway toward a beach, a hotel called Finch Bay, and the trail to Las Greitas. The hotel looks very, very nice. I think I will have to find out their room rates for when George arrives. Frida says maybe we would stop in for a drink on the walk back. Great idea.

 We find the trail. It is very well marked and incredibly volcanic. I told her I had sneakers, and she said that hiking boots would be better, oh well. Mostly, hiking boots would be good support for your ankles, just in case you missed your footing and t-w-i-s-t. It very sunny and I have to stop and put more sunscreen on my arms.

I explain to her that my flush face may look like I am about to have a coronary, but that is how my body works. I get red-faced, but still have the endurance to go on. Frida still insists upon a sit-down break when we find some shade to sit under. As we sit, we can hear the men & boys jumping off the high ledge of the crevice into the water below. We are close.

We head on and we arrive. There are two sets of steep stairs to climb down, then scramble over some very big volcanic rocks and there is one little place to enter the water without jumping. Frida, who knew what we were going to do, has on a swimsuit. I, on the other hand, completely clueless, find a shady spot to sit and watch. The water is cold, I can tell because everyone hesitates and says Frio! Some people have brought their snorkels, a family is here with the Mom sitting and watching as her husband and two kids swim, most of the men/boys jump from various heights.

Frida is out of the water, air drying. We watch the jumpers. I snap picture after picture of the jumpers, then put my camera away. Then Frida says These two guys are going to jump at the same time! Indicating to me to get my camera out, but fast! I do, but it is too late. Drats! Even though I take lots of photos, intend to keep only one or two of the best ones. A double jump probably would have been a keeper, though.

The longer we stay the more people come. There are 25 persons here now, and Frida asks if I am ready to go. You bet! I am all sweaty (yes, Karen, sweaty) and ready to return to a refreshing drink. We head up and out. On the way back, I snap a pic of Frida as she turns and stands. I can’t wait to send it to her as an email attachment. The trail isn’t very long on the way back. You know how that is, it takes forever to get to a place that you’ve never been, and the return trip always seems shorter.

There is a new building that we passed on the way in that Frida had never seen before. It is a bar, and we decide to sit and have a drink here. We sit at it for maybe 10 minutes and no one comes to serve us. Actually, no one was in sight anywhere(!) It was a good break, and we head back toward the water taxi station. When we get to the beach, I walk near the shore rather than the boardwalk. I say to Frida Are these Darwin Seagulls, because everything is named Darwin this, Darwin that? She says that they are Lava Gulls. I hear their cry. It is like Bru-ha-ha-ha; a very unusual “song,” I think. I have heard these birds at the Station and wondered who had that mysterious sounding birdcall.

This time I pay for the return trip. Frida has invited me to her apartment for tea before I head home, but the skies are looking ominous, it is definitely going to rain. I tell her Thanks, I will go to the supermarket buy some things (a gallon of water and a drink), and try to make it back to the dorms before the sky opens up.

On my way back, I see that there will be a music festival in the plaza tonight. The banner says it starts at 6 PM. When I walked past the plaza this morning, Cerveza vendors were setting up by putting bottles of beer into refrigeration. Now at 4:30 PM, the food vendors are setting up their stands.

I am glad to have had my Tampico (name brand) citrus punch (orange, mandarin and lemon) to fortify me on my return trip. Of course it’s made mostly of sugared water with a citrus flavor, but it hit the spot.

Just as I am at the end of the circle at the Station, it starts to rain. I stop briefly under the Admin bldg porch to get my umbrella out. False alarm. I walk to my room and unload my backpack. Whew!

My roommate is there and asks me what I did all day. I tell her. I have just carried a gallon of water that came out of the store refrigerator through town. I am a little warm from the walk, and it is just too tempting to open the new jug and have a quenching cool drink of water. I do it, and I am refreshed. Ah…

I’m thinking about taking a shower, but there are only a few hours left of daylight, and my only Internet access is you know where. I go to the Library, log-on, read and write emails. When I am in the Library and it rains, I know this because it sounds like a 747 taking off over head. And, that’s the sound I hear. I was right about the rain, just wrong about the timing.

It’s dark and I leave the Library. Time to head into the kitchen for cereal, raisins and milk for dinner. I go to the door and it is closed, lights are off (both inside and out). Hmm. The gang is watching a video (The Pathfinder) on a computer screen. Whoops! Sorry. I turn on the outside light which gives me enough light inside to find a bowl and “make” my dinner. I watch as much of it as I can stand, finish up, and go to take a shower, for the second time today!

I start this blog entry, and read a little. Mari had to work today and she will work again tomorrow. The researcher that she volunteers for lost too many days at the beginning of the week. So they are working all weekend. Poor kid. She gets up at 4:30 AM to be in the field before sunrise. At night, she is pretty exhausted, esp. because the rest of the dorm gang goes to town late for dinner, and then has some other activity planned. She wants to be part of the group, but has this dreadful schedule (you know, for a young person).

As I lay in bed, Dario (next door) has Frank Sinatra singing “New York New York” blaring out and he is singing along with it! I smile to myself, thinking that I take a chartered bus to the Big Apple four times a year from Willimantic, and can take Metro North any other time that I want. Spoiled much? When his music quiets down, through the window I can hear the sound of the music from town over the sound of the crashing waves. I drift off…

Thursday, February 14, 2008: VD day

February 28, 2008 by kris2008

I am reminded this morning that my friend Meg used to call Valentine’s Day, VD day. Okay, that was in the 80s and probably left over from the late 60s/early 70s. At any rate, Happy Valentine’s Day!

I do the breakfast routine, and open the Library. I feel that someone has to come in today, or I will truly be sitting at the Librarian’s desk with not much to do. I still haven’t finished alphabetizing the current periodicals shelves so that can be on my To Do List, and I will get to it sometime.

I open Outlook and I receive an email from Susana Cardenas in Quito that has the Cataloging Manual as an attachment. Yippee! Progress. Now you’re talking! It was originally written in Spanish, but this is the translated English version. I read it and correct some of the syntax, spelling, etc. and save my copy in my new Jacobi folder on the desktop. I feel like I am getting somewhere, hopefully, more knowledgeable. The one thing that I find is bad policy in the Cataloging Manual is that they are duplicating the whole bib record for every copy they hold of an item. Bad mojo, this. I will talk to Paola about it, and tell her that it opens up way too many possibilities for errors, etc.

I cannot print the manual. When I go to print, the printer pop up box says This document failed to print. Huh? I know that I printed stuff yesterday. I email Paulina, the person in charge of the Library, to tell her that I would email Sistemas directly, but she should know that I can’t print. Also what the heck is wrong with the date stamp on the Librarian’s desktop? The email that I send Paulina has “Jueves, 14 de Septiembre de 2006” as the date sent. When she replies, it says “Jueves, 14 de Febrero 2008.” Ah, time warp! And since I am writing to her, what about my CDF Staff Tee-shirt? And I still haven’t paid for my airplane ticket. And, what do I do for Library supplies, etc.

I must say that I am disappointed with the lack of orientation that I receive. I have started a who’s who list so I know some of the names of the players here. I don’t know the organizational chart and who reports to whom. It is definitely a trial by fire.

That done, I bring my attention back to the Cataloging manual and the data I input yesterday. I call it up and edit it, and it looks more like the others already in the database. Good thing!

I keep the Manual open in Word, I have the OPAC program open, I open the Excel spreadsheet where I duplicate what goes into the OPAC bib record, and I am (or I think I am) ready to catalog! I start with the newsletter Aliens, and review each issue. I am up to issue 7 when I find an article on the Galápagos. I check the title in the database, it is not there. I can catalog this one. I take a photocopy of the article. It is one page article and it is about the ungulates in the Galápagos. I have to go to the DDC21 Index volume and look up Goats for the Dewey call number. Easy. Call numbers here are constructed with up to 4 decimal places in the Dewey number (less is best), and the first three letters of the author’s last name. Each piece that is cataloged is accessioned. I start cataloging with 2008-006. This is the 6th item cataloged in the year 2008, and so on.

I start with the Excel spreadsheet, and put in the author, title, date, ISBN, where published including the voluming, the paging, the Dewey class number, the number of copies, the location, whether it is a PDF, whether it is a CDF internal report, ….

I am so involved that it is lunchtime. Good, I now have a new process to learn and to do. And I look forward to returning to the Library after lunch to catalog!

At 2 PM, I unlock the Library. It is raining. The days start sunny, build up to thunderheads, and Wham! Downpour. The Polish woman arrives very happy to be inside the Library. She walked from town I think. She is very affable but she is here to work on her book today. She plugs in her laptop and starts writing. She asks for some reference materials, I get one and she is happy and types away.

Tom comes into the Library looking for Teca (the Spanish word for Teak) and reforestation this time. Okay, now I can find one article for him and he checks it out to take away and read.

Bogumila stays until the Library closes and again, I let her take books back to her hotel for her writing. I still have her passport, I know these books will be returned.

I walk back to the dorm room happy to have the Cataloging Manual and knowing that I finally be as productive as I can. It is a great feeling.

I eat my standard dinner, shower and read. Each day is becoming more routine with the daily events, but the work day always varies.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

February 28, 2008 by kris2008

Today starts like all the others. I am so thankful not to have to make breakfast, but go to the cafeteria and eat.

The Library is completely dead today and I get my nerve up to try to enter a Nueva bibliografia into the OPAC. I can figure Autor, Titulo, etc. but there are fields in the template that I cannot decipher without a Spanish English Dictionary. The one on the Librarian’s desk is old and yellow and falling apart, but it still has words in it!! I find Fecha means Date, Ubicion means Location, and on and on.

The open source bibliographic utility is fine, but not very robust. It was set up to take MARC and non-MARC fields, so this is a relief.

I play around with it and see what it looks like in the OPAC when I’m done. In the end, the bib record is ugly, too general for the cataloger in me.

I go to the Biblioteca Outlook email folder. The previous Librarian has subscribed to get at least 20 TOC from ScienceDirect. It is a free service, but the Library does not subscribe to any databases that I know of. This is just informational and the number of backlogged email messages is enormous. I am stumped as to what to do about it. Someone at lunch, Mark Gardener perhaps, mentioned that I should set up a wiki on the Intranet. Hmm, intranet. I have no clue about where that is, what is on it and how I can set up a wiki on it, or how to set up a wiki for that matter!

I email Susan Herzog at Eastern to ask about wikis and she sends me a couple of good websites to look at and figure out what the heck? re: wikis.

I receive an email question about teak again from Tom Poulson. And I search the web to see what I can find to help him.

It is lunchtime and I close the Library, walk up to the dorm to wash my hands, then walk to the cafeteria. I always try to sit outside if there is room at the tables. I don’t get to see enough of the daylight during the daylight! It is wonderful to sit back and watch the big ships, cruise boats, sailboats, skiffs, catamarans, water taxis, and pangas in Academy Bay. When I see the sail boats rocking because of the center mast, I think that when George comes and I find a cruise for us, it will not be onboard a boat with a sail. Everyone here says that they look romantic, but the boats don’t use sail power very often, they use engine power. Still, I think of that rocking motion of a sailboat and I am ready to go to my room for some Dramamine.

Not long after I open the Library, a CDF staff person comes in to sweep and wash the Library floor. I am amazed at the dirt being swept up. When he goes to wash the floor, I tell him to be careful around the cardboard boxes that are all over the floor (but under the bottom shelf of the book stacks). The Library looks great! Yet by the end of the day, I have not had one library user walk through the door.

At 5 PM, Paola walks in and I talk to her about my cataloging. She shows me and tells me what I am doing right, and wrong. What is needed, what the punctuation is. She says that she will email Susana to get me the Cataloging procedures. This is wonderful. Finally getting to the nitty-gritty of what I do know and what my priority is: Cataloging.

After she leaves, I lock up the Library, head back to the dorm to my cereal, milk and raisins dinner. Take a shower and read myself to sleep.

Tuesday, February 12, 2008: Galapagos Days Holiday – Not!

February 28, 2008 by kris2008

I awake to pouring rain this morning, I eat a late breakfast (7:30 instead of 7AM), and start my day slowly. Even though it is a holiday, I open the Library and begin work. Well, I almost begin work, I think to catch up with email (both ECSU and Gmail) on the Librarian’s computer.

A woman from Poland, Bogumila Nawrot, comes into the Library looking for information on Galapagos. She is a writer and wants to write a book. She brought her laptop and we found some natural history books for her to use as background. Although she is Polish, English was her language of choice (not Spanish). She found two books, and I loaned them to her (against Library policies). She leaves her passport as collateral, so I think that she will return to the Library and return these books. She takes Steadman, Galapagos Discovery on Darwin’s … and Stewart, Galapagos, the Islands that Changed …  

By lunchtime the weather has improved so I walk to the cafeteria avoiding the puddles. I eat lunch on the outside deck with the newly hired head of BioMar. He is from Germany, and has a two year leave of absent from his home university (working there only one month per year on his campus). Not a bad deal. As he left, Dennis comes in for lunch. He joins me, then another gentleman comes to join us and eat, too. He had been in a Scalesia Tree forest (all morning) bird-watching, for the Large Ground Finch, I think.  

On the deck, my view is to the south and open water, but there are jetties made with volcanic rocks. I see an orange cat and exclaim, There’s a kitty! Ah, well yeah, it is a feral cat and it just scored a small marine iguana. The birder guy lifts his binoculars and sees the cat as it slinks back into the undergrowth. The conversation then turns to feral cats, dogs, and rats; all introduced to the islands and needing eradication. The goats, I guess, were easier to catch because of their size. Having the goats completely eradicated on several islands was big news here not too long ago.

Anyway, as I leave I introduce myself, and he said that he met me yesterday. Ah, yeah, it was the famed, Robert Richardson, from England (& The Conservancy)! He is the birder! I certainly wish that I would get better with names and faces. There are an awful lot of persons here to keep straight!! So I embarrass myself yet again.

Usually, I will leave the library after checking emails at Eastern & Gmail. Then I go back to the dorm for my cereal & fruit (usually raisins) dinner. Then, I hit the shower. The women’s room is like the mosquito coast, and between hopping around under the saltwater spray and swatting mosquitoes, I can actually wash my hair and body, but it’s dicey.

Tonight, when I go back to my room, my roommate, Mari, and most of the others have come back from eating dinner in town. They rented two movies: The Departed, and another that I can’t remember. It will be The Departed tonight in the lounge, after the soccer game (rerun?) has been watched. The estimated time to start the movie is 9 PM.

If the women’s room is the mosquito coast, then the kitchen/lounge is the breeding area. Lots of insects always, including cockroaches, grasshoppers, moths, and the ever present mosquitoes. Mari and I put insect repellent on our clothes and skin, which is totally necessary if you want to be in there for any length of time over a few minutes.

At 9:30, the movie begins. Dario makes popcorn the old fashioned way (on the stove in a big kettle), and someone’s laptop is the screen. A set of speakers are plugged in and the lights are turned off. 5 of us huddle around the screen to see the flick. They watch it in English with Spanish subtitles, lucky for me. For this movie in particular, it’s a great way to learn about the Southies of South Boston, the Providence mafia, and all of the best/worst swear words in the English language. The movie ends at midnight and I hit the sack.

Mari left the movie early because she must wake up to work tomorrow. She has to meet the researcher at 5 AM to take a taxi to where they will collect birds. Mustn’t be late, and Mari needs her sleep!

Monday, February 11, 2008: One week in …

February 28, 2008 by kris2008

I awoke at 1 AM, having to use the ladies room. The night time sky is incredible. The Big Dipper is upside down! The stars are amazing here (obviously) because there aren’t many artificial lights to interfere. And they sure look different!

At 7 AM, I get up and dress quietly and go to breakfast. Monday breakfasts are much desired, mostly because it is not cereal, and I can enjoy being served something hot (milk and an egg) and delicious (fruit salad, fruit juice and some bread thingy). It regenerates me for the week ahead.

The Galapagos Days schedule indicates that tomorrow is a holiday, so today, I ready myself to give my all. I am still all about trying to figure this place out physically and virtually. And I feel a little better about me being here as a solo librarian. Call it, Monday Morning Optimism!

Mid-morning, some big muckety-muck from the Galapagos Conservancy (in England) comes in. He is accompanied by the new CDF Director, Graham Watkins. He introduces himself and I introduced myself. He is getting a good look at the Library facilities, and it would be obvious to anyone that the Library needs to be better equipped and enlarged. I think he said his name was Robert Richardson, but when I google him, I find only a Richard Robertson. It must be my dyslexia. We speak briefly about the Library and the collection, and part of what he will do when he goes back to the UK is raise money for a new building for the Library. If you visited here too, it would be easy to see that a new one is needed. Even he smelled and commented on the mustiness of the books in the air. Generally, I’d say that the air quality in the Library needs someone’s attention. He snaps my picture as “The Librarian,” so I maybe one day I will be famous across the Pond(!)

I usually head back to the dorms and wash my hands before I go to lunch. So I arrive at the cafeteria a little later than noon. The lunches are noteworthy. Every one starts with homemade soup, then the main course which is a choice of fish or beef, or fish or chicken; with rice and/or potatoes. There is always a fabulously delicious fruit juice, and a dessert. I’m afraid my diet is blown!

I stumble through the afternoon. One (English speaking) researcher comes in looking for information about planting teak on the island for hardwood harvesting. He thinks there is a report on it. The OPAC is no help and I am at a complete loss. I apologize and he leaves. Ugh! So this is what reference is about too, I guess.

It is very quiet in the Library without Juan Carlos. At 5 PM, I lock the doors and go back to the dorm. Usually around 6 or 6:30, I eat dinner. You already know what it is.

I continue to read books that I know I’ve read before. Currently, Tony Hillerman. Ya-ta-hey. Mari is reading a novel in French with a dictionary by her side. It is easy to be prone, reading and then drift off to sleep. Peace …

Sunday, February 10, 2008: Galápagos Festival at Tortuga Bay

February 28, 2008 by kris2008

This morning, early morning, I am awakened by the smell of mildew. Ugh! The window sill above my bed head must have gotten damp during the night. And the smell permeates. For the first time, I closed the door to my room at night. I probably won’t be doing that anymore! I open the door and have at it to sleep again. I put the sheet up over my nose and the smell is better, but can’t really fall asleep like this. I roll to my side, put the sheet to my nose and crash.

I awake at 7 AM, thankful for those few hours more. It is Sunday and I hear the church bells ringing in town. I say a prayer for my Mom; that she is gaining her strength back a little more every day. I brought a nice matching skirt and blouse to go to church in, but I have only found the Seventh Day Adventist Church in town. Not too sure about it, so I pass it up for this Sunday. I do need to explore more in town.

The day is mostly cloudy, and I decide to: hit the head, wash my face, come back to my room. I get my breakfast organized (today I get to use my new knife to cut & eat a ripe plantain = banana (I hope) on my cereal), go to the kitchen, eat breakfast, & clean up the kitchen (just a little). Move my shorts to the other wash line (maybe it won’t rain today), make my bed, sweep the tile floor of my room (the volcanic rock that they have for some pathways here sticks to the bottom of shoes and when you walk barefoot on the floor in here, ouch!).

I read and I blog for a few hours, and the dorms start to awaken around 10 AM. I am solo and it feels pretty good. I know that it will end today, but it sure was fun while it lasted.

Everyone is going to the beach at Tortuga Bay today. Big doings for the Galápagos Festival; music, beer and the beach, what more can you ask for? The day is warm and humid with a hazy sun, and I can’t let the day go by without some activity. They say that they are going to leave as soon as everyone is ready. So I put on my bathing suit, grease up with sunblock, grab some snacks (raisins, granola bar and a cellophane wrapped gummy bear vitamin C thingy), a bottle of water, my book to read (just in case), my field guide that has maps in the back, my umbrella (another just in case), my sarong, and my camera and put them in my backpack. I wear my baseball cap and long sleeved white shirt as sun protection. I have money, ah, you know, just in case, and I am ready to go.

Roberto, one of my neighbors, has a whistle from the night before. He blows it and blows it. Same 10 notes, over and over. It’s kind of cute and kind of annoying, at the same time. But he is happy and I guess I think that makes it fun. I also think that if he keeps it up some Galápagos mockingbird will have this melody as his new song!

Two women, sitting on the stone wall, are getting impatient waiting, and we three start to walk to town, “the boys” and the rest will follow soon. When we get into town and an area of restaurants, the two women say that they are all supposed to meet up for breakfast at some eatery. I already ate breakfast so I say goodbye and head off to investigate the town. I will meet them at the beach. There is the main drag that I am walking, and the road that comes into town from the north. These are the 2 main avenidas that make up the business district of Puerto Ayora. It is early and not much is open but I walk down one and up the other. The sun is blazing down now as it is the middle of the day. I am hot and it is sticky humid. The white shirt I’m wearing I bought at the Salvation Army before I left. It is an XL LLBean 100% cotton and very dense; not a light and airy-type fabric at all. The shirt is definitely protecting my precious white skin, but it feels more like I am inside a sauna. I am sweating all over, and my black backpack clings to my back. I walk and walk. I look at the map in the back of my guide-book and it sure looks like this main avenue that heads north forks, and I stay to the left to go to the beach. I do not see any fork in this road yet and I eventually decide that I have gone way too far. I double back a little so the road to the beach is now to my right. I walk off the main street into some residential area. I zigzag through thinking that I will find this “fork road” eventually. I luck out as I find a little local tienda in the midst of these houses and purchase a cold bottle of water and ask for directions to Tortuga Bay. The owner indicates that it is 2 blocks down, take a right. I thank her, finish the water to leave the bottle for recycling, and start walking again. That water sure tasted great, but here I am walking again. Of course, if I never discover this road to the beach, I will walk back to the Station and call it a day.

But I am in luck as the directions are correct, and the dead giveaway is all of the people dressed for the beach heading in the same direction that I am! I am oriented and I find some gorgeous trees in bloom in a yard and snap some pix. I see this really wild and strange looking children’s train of some kind, where all five cars are painted maybe like ducks or birds of some kind. Each has a little red roof cover and it is pretty crazy to find this carnival or parade object in someone’s yard! I snap a picture. Then the dreaded red light flashes in the shape of a battery on my camera’s screen. Oh no! Here I am on the way to the big soiree, and my camera dies! I vow henceforth to carry spare ones (even right after I put the new ones in the camera!)

I find myself following a family of kids and moms. They carry bottles of soda, an umbrella, an inflatable something, and towels. It is not too far from the tienda where I stopped, but never would have picked this road as the “fork.” What a map!

As I approach the entrance to the pathway to the beach, I hear Roberto whistling his favorite tune on his new whistle! I can’t believe that I have found my group after all this time meandering around town! I say Hola Roberto! And everyone turns to say Hola! because they are glad to see me.

The path to Tortuga Bay is interesting to say the least. At the bottom of this cliff, where I found Roberto and the others buying multicolored snowcones, is a stairway. You climb up and up and at the top you are rewarded with a great view of Academy Bay. This Bahia Tortuga is a part of the Galápagos National Park and you are supposed to sign in, but there are tens of persons waiting in line, and we just walk around the line past them, and we are on our way. The trail is paved with volcanic rock and well maintained. It goes through a forested area, up and down and on and on. It has to be at a mile or more to the beach. Just at the end, when I feel like am ready to faint, the light onshore breeze with that heavy saltwater air smell refreshes me enough to keep going. The trail ends on this gorgeous white sand beach. It is so beautiful, I forget how hot and tired I was just a minute ago. Most of the people are take their sandals off and walk the beach. Not this baby! I’m taking my sandals off and walking right on the shoreline, in and out of the waves as they wash in and out. It is fabulous. I am in my element. Wow! I say, again and again.

It is low tide, but who cares? All the more fun for wading. The Festival is at the complete other end of this crescent shaped beach. We walk some more. There are people who have those beach tents, others have towels hanging overhead on sticks, anything to be out of the sun, and up by the dunes. We park ourselves in the middle of things near one volley ball court. Practically every young person has a soccer ball too, and soccer “fields” are created by using a pail of sand dumped upside down on either side of some imaginary line to make a goal. Rather clever! It is shirts vs. skins and everyone is playing hard but having fun. There are Frisbees being tossed. And there is a general atmosphere of a beach party. The music is techno and is piped through two giant speakers. There is a raised platform with microphone and PA system.

I have had enough sun and sweat, and I take off my shorts, leave on my shirt and walk into the water. Although I had to walk out pretty far to get water up to my waist, when I get there, I glide in, up to my neck. I wish that I could see without my glasses on, so that cuts down on my “swimming.” I have on my baseball a cap too. I take off my glasses and my hat and go under holding one arm above the waterline. It is refreshing to be all wet. When I am ready, I walk back to our stuff and I pull out my sarong and use it as a blanket. The onshore breeze with wet clothes on makes me feel cooler. Good thing! Now that I have cooled a little, I am hungry. There are vendors open for refreshments: watermelon, water and beer. Interesting combination. I buy a beer I have at my granola bar, raisins and gummy bears. Talk about an interesting combination!

Okay, I’d be the first to admit that drinking beer on the beach in the sun is really not such a smart thing. But I catch a buzz, use my backpack as a pillow, put my hat over my face, and “rest my eyes” (as my husband George would say). I am listening to the music (just passable) and the sounds of people talking, yelling, playing sports. Again, glorious.

There was a beauty pageant for the Festival on Saturday and they crowned Miss Galápagos. She is here and they announce her from the stage. Everyone cheers and claps, and moves toward the stage. There will be a bathing suit contest for girls ages 14-17, and one for boys or men (who cares?), and then a wet Tee-shirt contest. This is when it is time for me to hit the highway.

I say goodbye to the gang and head down this gorgeous beach to the trailhead. I think about the walk home and wade into the water one more time, this time without the shirt and shorts, just to be wet (and possibly refreshed?) on the walk back to the dorms.

I am not long on the trail when the skies open up and it rains. Clever me, I have my umbrella! I am glad to have it, but it is small and I move my backpack to my front wearing it strangely, I guess. Between my umbrella being lime green and my backpack now a frontpack, I am sure that it makes the Galápaguenos think that I am just another crazy tourista. I say Hola to all of the folks still coming to the beach even as I am leaving.

While I was sitting on the beach, I opened my guidebook again. Now reading what it actually said about how to get to Tortuga Bay. And I quote “You take the second street on your left after the Hospital.” So it would have been that easy to get here, if I had only read the darn directions! Seems to me that a map should not need explanatory text!! So now having been there, and with these few simple directions, I am ready to show this beach to George when he is here. I know that he will love it too.

I walk through town for all the life of me looking and feeling like I just walked out of a scene in a “B” movie, Creature from the Black Lagoon. I am wet (both salt and rain), my hair is probably a fright, and my Birkenstocks soggy. Of course, the only street I know is Darwin Avenida (the main street) so I try to gather my energy and make a quick walk through town.

At the end of this avenida, starts the road to the Park and the Station. I walk slowly again thinking about how great a shower will feel when I arrive back at the dorms.

I am alone here as everyone is at the festivities on the beach. I shower and hang up my bathing suit to dry. I will wash it in my next struggle with the washing machine. I really caught a sunburn on my face, but the rest of me is fine, thank goodness.

In my room, my roommate has moved in, but she is not here. I spend some time blogging and some time reading/writing email in the Library. The connection is like molasses during the week (even at night), but it is faster on the weekend. I leave the Library to go to the dorms just before dark.

I am ready for my dinner of cereal, milk and raisins. When I get there, I have a new roomie. Her name is Mari Cruz and she is from Quito. She went to University of Texas San Antonio for her undergraduate degree in Biology. She speaks perfect English. I am blessed to have her as bilingual. I’m not sure how I would be able to communicate if she was Spanish speaking only.

She works with a researcher setting up bird nets and catching, tagging and measuring one of Darwin’s finches (not sure which one). She is very sweet. And we talk to get to know one another better. She doesn’t have work tomorrow because the head researcher, Toby, is sick. I don’t have work tomorrow either, but because of the holiday of Galápagos Days.

I brush my teeth and get ready for bed, and we talk. It is great to have someone to speak with in English, who understands me, especially someone who has lived in the States, and experienced the American perspective.

Mari is part Spanish, and may go to Spain for her graduate degree. I tell her that my daughter, Ali, was in Alicante last summer taking Spanish language credits at the Universidad there. Although, she has never been to Alicante, she has heard that it is beautiful. I tell her that I think Ali really liked it there, esp. the beach!

All in all, a fabulous day. Starting and ending with a beach story. Peace …

Saturday, February 9, 2008

February 28, 2008 by kris2008

My roommate, Nadine, almost didn’t make the early rise to get to the group to go to lsla Isabela today. There was a lot of commotion outside but she slept through it. Her wakeup call was for 4:30 AM and she hurriedly packed her miscellaneous stuff and was gone.

As I am known to sleep anywhere, anytime, I was surprised not to be able to fall back to sleep right away. But I did and by 6:30 the rain outside had definitely awakened me. I retrieve my laundry that was left in the washer all night long and hang it in my closet on hangers (gracias Eduardo!) to dry. There is only one wash line that is covered (with a roof) to hang wet laundry on and I fold some of the dry laundry that had been hanging there for days in anticipation of using part of this clothes line. So, without a roommate, I take over her closet as my drying rack.

After a little while of blog writing, I am hungry for breakfast. I go to the next building which houses the kitchen/lounge. The music is still blaring and two guys are listening to the music, pretty much drunk. There was a party here last night, and they have stayed up all night drinking (because I see 3 empty quart size bottles of alcohol). There is alcohol spilled on the table with a giant knife sitting in middle. There are 3 bowls of cut up limes, mostly used. Ah, I think, tequila party! One is dancing and singing, the other is Juan Carlos, my buddy from the Library. The one dancing apologizes for the mess and asks me if I need any help. No, gracias. I brought my cereal and raisins from my room, I just need a bowl, spoon and my milk out of the refrig. I find a dry spot, and sit at the table, eating. Every once in a while we talk, I watch him dancing, Juan Carlos, who is sitting on the couch, is text messaging someone on his phone. It’s a wild morning, that’s for sure. I pity those guys after they crash and wake up. Ugh!

At 9 o’clock, the rain has stopped, but it’s still overcast, and Boy! Does it feeI humid. I have a direct view of the kiosk where the CDF sells tee-shirts and other items near Lonesome George. It is a well trafficked path and I hear visitors’ voices all the time from my room. Unlike the others here, I keep my wooden door open, the screen door shut.

It is 11 o’clock and I hear a sea lion (or seal) barking it up in the bay. Oouuut, oouuut, oouut! I laugh. I have seen them swimming in the bay while on the cafeteria porch at lunchtime, but it is the first time I heard them.

I have been writing my blog entries for most of the morning and I finally decide to bite the bullet and download my pix from my camera. It is a different activity that is not typing and I am ready for it.

I download 252 pix! Holy Cow!! Some of them are still on the mini-disk from Christmas, so I don’t worry about the number of them too much. I am using Google’s Picasa software for the second time ever. I don’t quite have the hang of it yet. It’s fun to see the pix I took though of: the Bean, Otavalo markets, and my first day here when everything was brand new.

I figure out how to put captions on the individual pix. And I use my trusty guidebook, “Wildlife of the Galapagos” by Julian Fitter, to help me identify the plants and animals. So the captions are at least informative.

The sun is now shining, and I look at my watch see that it’s 12:30 PM. I am ready to walk to town for lunch. But before I have my backpack packed, Paolo is at my door asking me How are you doing in the Library? and wanting to get into the Library to get her files off the Librarian’s computer.

I have time. I grab my stuff, she grabs her bike and off we go to the Library. I unlock the place and dump the dehumidifier water while she turns on the computer. The particular plants that the Shade Garden guy wants me to water don’t look like they got much rain this morning. But it did rain quite heavily, and there are big puddles on the paths at the Station. The soil is very porous (volcanic) around these plants, and I am happy to do this chore.

I talk a little bit to Paola about the Library. I tell her that I read some of the shelves on Friday, and found two copies of the same title under two different call numbers. Now I know exactly how David O. feels when finds books like this in our stacks! Paola says that I need to decide which Dewey number I like better and go with it. I tell her that I am ready to start cataloging and doing data entry as soon as she can teach me.

I meet her husband, Henry, and we all leave the library together. Amazingly, I can easily lock the front door (which has given me trouble all week long). She tells me that she had a dream about me (Oh?), and that I completely changed the Library all around and all of the call numbers, too! I asked her if it was a nightmare and she said No. She felt good about what I did to the Library in her dream!! Too funny.

We say good-bye and I start the 15 minute walk to town. I stop at the Red Mangrove Inn again for lunch. Lunch is served until 3, and I sit outside on their dining deck under an umbrella. The on-shore breeze is brisk, but warm and I watch many, many Brown Pelicans swoop, roost and preen. I see Sally Lightfoot Crabs slowly walking on a nearby dock. There are a few Marine Iguanas around; one swimming, one basking in the sun on the deck just behind me. I consider it a photo op, and snap his picture. There are a slew of boats off of Puerto Ayora. Maybe a lot of tours have disembarked here today for a day at the Station, and to see the shops in town, and spend some cash.

There is another woman eating her lunch at an outside table. She is having what I ate here last time. I was delicious, but the tempura didn’t stay hot enough long enough for me to order it again this time. I order something similar: fruitas de mar (shrimp, and other assorted delicacies) with stir fried vegetables, mango juice and a bottle of water. The service is wonderfully slow and I hear this strange sound coming from my right. Hmm. I look over and on this 3-seat bench under a canopied area is a seal laying there, looking for all the world like this is his restaurant. I laugh and go over and snap his picture, too. The woman says that he was lying there this morning at breakfast. Lazy guy.

The waitress comes out and tells us that it is just “Stinky” and that is his favorite spot. Well before too long, the waitress has gotten another Red Mangrove employee to help her discharge Stinky from the bench. It’s all very amusing and Stinky ends up snoozing under the deck that we are eating on. Every so often, I hear him snort, and then I laugh again. Too much.

I ask the woman if she likes this hotel. She says that it is average. Not very high praise. This is the one hotel that I think that I would like to stay in when George is here. Of course, I have the whole town to scout out still. But I like this place. My Quito airplane buddy Brian said that you used to be able to stay here for $50 a night, but not anymore. My Ecuador travel guide puts it at $$$$ (170-290) per night(!)

I have my Wildlife book with me and I read and read. The weather is starting to cloud up, the wind is picking up, and eventually the waitress comes with my bill. I’ve spent 2 enjoyable hours here, I pay and leave.

When I get outside I have to choose whether to walk the town again, or go back to the Station. I have an umbrella packed just in case the skies open up, so I choose town. Coming from the opposite direction is Dennis Geist, the volcanologist, who I met Friday at breakfast. He knows the town and I ask him where the supermercado is. He says that is on Av. Charles Darwin (the main one that we are walking), but at the far end where the port is. Be prepared, he says, it’s not like a big supermarket in the States, it’s more like a glorified 7-Eleven. I haven’t ever walked down to the end of this avenida, so I say good-bye and set off.

I find the store and it is much bigger than a 7-Eleven. I find a plantain (which I’ve never eaten), peanut butter, crackers, pre-packaged 4-piece silverware (big spoon, little spoon, knife, fork), a bottle of juice, a box of peach yogurt (yes, a quart size box of liquid yogurt), a kitchen sponge, clothespins, and a plastic glass (one of my daughter’s favorite oxymorons along with Jumbo shrimp). Quite a haul for $16.29! Less than my lunch just cost me!

I grab my bags and head for home. The sky is really starting to look ominous. I arrive at the path to the dorms just as the rain starts to fall. My mojo is back.

I am hot and sweaty, but there are only a few more hours of daylight left. I decide to start a small load of dark colored wash and lie on my bed and read for a while. This washing machine has to be the weirdest ever. The longest wash cycle is 2 hrs and 20 minutes long. Are you kidding me? I selected the 38 minute cycle and even that is too long to take for laundry. I will take my shower while my laundry spins and spins. But when I bring my stuff to the bathroom, I can hear that my laundry has stopped. I hang one pair of shorts under the one clothesline that has roof over it, and the other tee-shirts and pants on another ‘exposed’ line. I take my shower and as I get out, I hear the rain. Oh well, this is what my friend, Penny, calls “the final rinse.” At least it will be a fresh water rinse!

I go back to my room to read again, and then I go have dinner in the Kitchen/Lounge. No one is there to join me but I have Grisham. Dinner is exactly what I had for breakfast; sweetened cornflakes, raisins and milk. This time though, I have a glass and some juice. I use my new spoon. It feels pretty gosh darn good to be here.

I go back to my room and start playing a video game. A couple of hours of evening entertainment. Juan Carlos stops in, ask me what I am doing, and we talk. He still hasn’t been to sleep yet. As his buddies walk past the door, he invites them into my room. Patrick, Dario, & another guy whose name I immediately forget but works IT with Juan Carlos. (I’ll ask Juan Carlos what their names were again on Monday, in the Library.) Juan Carlos goes to take a shower and these 3 guys and I talk about what we do here, where we live, etc. Dario is the singer/dancer from this morning’s breakfast. He is from Loja, Ecuador and I truly think that he is very homesick. Misses it so much he drinks and blares his musica todo el tiempo. I understand the homesick part. I do miss home, family, friends, co-workers, etc. I just know that I better have Internet access by the time March Madness rolls around!!!!!!

They leave and I’m back to The Rise of Atlantis video game. Juan Carlos stops in after his shower. He is all decked out with a long sleeved shirt, long pants, socks & shoes. He looks very handsome, I tell him. I wish that I had the presence of mind to take his picture. Anyway, the boys are off to town. It’s 10 PM and it’s Saturday night. What else are young men to do? Unfortunately, the skies open up again and it’s pouring. I Hope those guys are already in a bar…

I get as far as I want to on my quest for Atlantis, and decide to read. The lighting in this room is one bare solar powered light bulb at the apex of the high ceiling. It is almost impossible to read lying down. But I finish Grisham. And off to sleep.

Friday, February 8, 2008: Day Three at Work

February 28, 2008 by kris2008

I awake and go to breakfast and eat. I am very impressed with the food and the service, but as noted before I am very surprised and unhappy that there is no real coffee!! I guess that I will have to continue to get enough sleep every night that I won’t need a cuppajoe to function.

And I open the Library. I putter around trying to make sense of this place. I try to organize the journal rack only to discover items on these shelve are dated in 2006! Cowabunga! What the heck?

Juan Carlos arrives and we talk and he goes to work and so do I. Again, I am drilling down into the Library folder to understand it. But it is still Greek.

I look through the drawers of mail that has been stockpiled for the arrival of the Librarian. Ouch! There are 3 big file drawers filled. With all of these journals all backed up, it is no wonder why the journal display area is so out of date!

I have been told by Paola that any article or books that are directly related to the Galapagos is my priority to catalog. I just have to find them! I know that I will be using the ECSU Smith Library journal locator and databases to my advantage here.

I find two 2008 calendars and hang one on the door. At least I will know what day it is. I find an old 2006 datebook calendar and decide to salvage it to be my Library diary. Using the 2008 calendar and the 2006 datebook, I take a black permanent marker and edit the datebook. Of course it is ugly, but it functions. I need to record the number of visitors, researchers, FCD staff, volunteers, email and phone inquiries each day. I need to record the number of items returned, checked-out, and renewed. This will be my annotated paper back-up!

It is lunch time, and not one soul has come into the Library. Of course, part of this is that the Library is now fully staffed (Ha!) and the hours of operation are longer than they have been. I don’t know whether to feel good or bad about this!

I eat lunch alone again, but I see Juan Carlos and say Hola! I sign my meal ticket and go back to the room to lie on the bed and read for a ½ hour; my new routine.

At 2 PM, I am back in the Library, but Juan Carlos is not. Hmm. I am sorry not to have him here just in case I need an interpreter again.

It is almost impossible to imagine that every scrap of paper is saved and re-used. In the States, I am very good about recycling printer paper, mostly to print on the blank side and then recycle it. Here, if you have a piece of paper that is even 1/2” wide x 3” long, you best cut it and use it for writing notes, etc. It is a complete time warp where you never know if there will be any more paper coming your way. Conserve it. I spend some time with a scissors and the paper cutter cutting up paper to have (teeny) blank pieces of paper to write on.

At 2:50, I put a note on the door to say “Be back at 3 PM” and take the walk over to the Administration building to pick up the mail from the mailboxes. There is a cute little key that opens the cubby. And it looks like the Library’s cubby is the only one locked! I guess that someone might just help his- or herself to a journal issue if it wasn’t locked, and of course, forget to bring it to the Library. This is a pretty good and secure system. I think that I will get the mail once per week, and Friday is as good a day as any.

At 4 PM, all CDF staff are supposed to be in town for the beginning the parade for the Galapagos Days Festival. I feel like an old stick in the mud, but I guess that I will pass. No shirt, (no shoes), no festival! Drats! I kind of did hope to have my white CDF Staff shirt today in order to look like I belonged there, but no matter. 5 PM comes soon enough and I lock the Library’s doors for the weekend of who knows what adventure.

When I get to the room, Nadine is all excited to go to town and join in the festivities. Do I want to come? Ah, no. You go, it is your last night before you leave. Everyone except me is gone from the dorm rooms anyway. Have fun! It is quiet and peaceful, and I can write my blog, or play my computer game, or read, or just think about this place, my Mom, the Library, etc. Plenty to do.

I go to the kitchen/lounge and have it all to myself. It is not a very clean environment, but I don’t want to eat in the room (which is much cleaner) but if I drop any food, I will attract bugs into the room, so I don’t dare. Of course, dinner is cereal, raisins and milk.

I flop on the bed and read. I can hear the music from town through the window at the head of the bed. It sounds like a party going on, that is for sure!

I am satisfied that I have done one or two things in the Library today. No a whole lot, mind you but it feels less strange. I drift off to sleep …